Jimbaran is just south of the airport and Kuta. This was formerly a real backwater of south Bali, just a tiny fishing village with a daily market. That all started to change in the 1980s and Jimbaran is now home to several world class 5 star beach resorts, plus a few more moderate mid-market hotels. There is however little in the way of budget accommodation and there are also many high-end villas in this area, particularly on the ridges of high ground above Jimbaran Bay.

The bay itself has a pleasant white sand beach and is very safe for swimming. The three clusters of grilled seafood restaurants on the beach are a major tourist draw in the evenings, as is the truly stunning sunset.

Jimbaran is also home to a Norwegian University, Gateway College, with around 500 students studying athletics, philosophy, culture, economics and journalism. The school is located in Kedonganan close to Sari Segara Resort and in Jl, Bantas Kau where it also has a small cafe.

Jimbaran has an increasing number of rather chic shops but there is little or no nightlife here. It has the advantage of being a little closer to Kuta and Seminyak and the cultural highlights of Central Bali.

Eating seafood on the beach in Jimbaran is a quintessential part of many a visitor’s itinerary when coming to Bali.

Jimbaran Bay is home to about fifty grilled seafood restaurants in three different groupings, all set along the beach. The three sections are Muaya (in the very south), Kedonganan (in the middle) and Kelan (north of the fish market). Each of the restaurants is much of a muchness and of the groupings, the most southerly closest to the Four Seasons is the most popular these days.

Tables are set up right on the sand and if you sit at the lowest tables at high tide, you can even get your feet wet. The sea breeze is cool, the sunsets are beautiful and the whole area is lit by oil torches after dark.

The restaurants serve essentially the same menu with one basic dining format:

• fire-grilled (bakar) seafood with your own choice of various fish, crab, squid, shrimp, lobster and other shellfish
• local green vegetables steamed with garlic
• rice or french fried potatoes
• local spicy sauces

Simply go up to the seafood tanks and choose the number and type of seafood you want to eat, pay by weight and the produce is grilled there and then. You also have the option of ordering from the menu but that is nothing like choosing your own seafood. It is also advisable to choose your own to avoid having the less healthy fish and crustaceans chosen for you. Prices at the restaurant for two with local Bintang beer or soft drinks are in the range of Rp 200,000-600,000 plus 15% tax and service, depending on quantity and type of seafood selected. Typically, 1 kg of fish costs about Rp 160,000.

All the restaurants also offer set menus for couples, ranging from Rp 400,000 to as much as 900,000 for different types of seafood combination. All the prices are negotiable, so make sure you shop around. Ask for a discount at the door. A 10% discount is usually granted to attract customers away from the competition.

Everything is freshly caught as Jimbaran is still a functioning fishing village. If you want to drink wine, bring it with you and pay a nominal corkage charge.

The combination of atmosphere and good food make this a memorable and delightful place to spend an evening.